Tag Archive: Dress

A coat, the Merchant&Mills Factory Dress and Camber Dress

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I like to sew dresses. Dresses always inspire me and they are fun to make. But somehow I wear dresses only at summertime. Because  when it is winter, you have to find matching coat and boots to your dress and if you haven’t planned properly, nothing in your wardrobe matches. That is often the case in my house. So I finally understood that I desperately need a good coat in my wardrobe so I could wear all the dresses I make and give my jeans a rest.

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Burda Style magazine 08/2014

After a long deliberation I decided to use the pattern from the Burda Style Magazine 08/2014. This pattern is for tall women and I am not tall. Maybe that was causing some fitting issues I had to fix. My mother is my “sewing buddy” but she lives far so my husband had to manage to do the fitting. It was not the smoothest but together we managed to raise the shoulder in strategic spots and this helped to fix the crossing fronts.

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I also managed to burn the front with the iron although the material is wool. So I had to make a seam to the fronts (to replace the burnt shoulder) and because I already had the seams, I also made the in seam pockets too.

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I also lengthened the coat, because my dresses are usually knee-height.  The fabric is two layered – the outer layer is wool and inner layer is cotton. I have worn the coat for a month now and it pills a bit. I hope the pilling stops soon :) But all in all I am content with my new coat and I have worn dresses a lot lately. I also bought my first Dr. Martens (shoes AND boots) to complete the look so I am a really happy camper!

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I also made two dresses. I fell in love with Merchant&Mills and ordered some patterns and their book. I love this company to pieces and I cannot imagine a better looking sewing company. I have watched their video twenty times at least! Their shop in Rye, East Sussex is my dream destination now :)

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First I made the famous Factory Dress. I used a nice yarn-dyed linen from my stash. I decided to cut the smallest size available although not all my measurements fall to this column. I didn’t change anything except the length and I think it came out beautifully. I have worn this dress a lot and I just cannot get over how much I love how a linen fabric creases. This is just beautiful :)

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Then I made the Camber dress. I liked the plaid dress on their website so much that I decided to make mine out of plaid wool. I was lucky to find exactly the fabric I was looking for (Kangastuudio in Tallinn, Estonia). I did struggle with the sleeves because I lengthened them but the original pattern was not good for long sleeves (the cap was too shallow). So I used a sleeve pattern I already had and recut the sleeve. I managed to set the sleeve about seven times before I was satisfied with the result.

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I also lined the body of the dress. I didn’t see that the lining was showing until I saw these pictures. So I have to fix it. I will also make short slits to the sides as I narrowed the dress a bit and it is a bit uncomfortable to walk (the dress tends to rise when I walk). Other than that I am happy with my dress and I have already worn it to a concert and two birthday parties. Eveli 0326-10

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New dress from Mekkotehdas book

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I am a big fan of Finnish blog Mekkotehdas. Few years ago they published their first sewing book of dresses for girls to 128 cm tall. I loved this book! This spring they came out with a new book, Mekkotehdas Aikuisille (Dress factory for grown ups). I met Sunna and Kirsi, the girls behind the blog and a photographer Krista Keltanen in Tallinn, Estonia this week and we had a lovely afternoon wandering around Tallinn Old Town. They also gave me their new book which I was so happy about! Next day, after closing the book I jumped right into sewing. The book was just so inspiring that I had to sew something from it right this moment :)

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I chose the dress Inger from the book and a soft rayon from my stash. Actually, I bought this fabric from Helsinki, Finland, where the authors live :)

According to the measurements given in the book, I should have taken the pattern for size 36 but as usual, I went for a size smaller. This is what I usually do, after measuring the pattern and comparing it with my existing garment, of course.

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The only thing I changed was the length. Everything else is like the pattern called. The dress has a zipper in the back but it goes on and comes off even without opening the zipper. As the fabric is quite sheer I added a silk lining. The rayon I used is very soft so I didn’t want to ruin the feeling by adding “cold” lining. Silk feels warm! I used up a silk top I had bought from thrift store with future sewing projects in mind. I often by silk garments from thrift store just because the fabric as the new silk fabric is quite expensive.

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This dress reminds me my high school days back in the nineties:) I used to have similar dress then. This dress is a bit out of the box for me though as I usually tend to choose patterns with fitted bodice. This dress has only bust darts, so it hangs loose and is therefore extra comfortable. For me, this fabric print combined with the pattern has definitely  nineties vibe :)

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About the book. I really enjoy Mekkotehdas style and feeling. Sunna and Kirsi together with photographer Krista take you to a fairytale created for people who love creating beautiful dresses, host cute little parties, walk in the woods and by the seaside… The book is not just about the patterns to make the dresses – it is the feeling you get.

There is about ten dress patterns in this book including one for girls up to 140 cm tall. The book also incorporates instructions for making a make-up bag, a beach tote, scarf with tassels and wrist warmers.

 

And after closing the book, you genuinely believe that from now on you will only wear cute dresses!

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Dresses

I usually like to wear jeans but for some reason I just love to sew dresses. Maybe because it is quite difficult to find a RTW dres that fits your top and bottom when you don’t have standard measurements.

My daughter is better at wearing dresses and she really needed one as she has grown and I haven’t made her a dress for a while now.

So I got my act togther and made two dresses :)

1. My dress.

 

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Photo: Burda Style Magazine 12/2012

Photo: Burda Style Magazine 12/2012

I had my eye on the dress pattern in Burda Style magazine 12/2012 for long time. I thought that the combination of the gathered skirt part and tweed fabric was quite unusual and not the best idea, but I really liked it anyway :)

I didn’t want a fabric so bulcky, so I opted for lightweight wool blend that I found in fabric store in Tallinn.

I decided to make the dress button up and collared. As the button band goes only to waist, I added a zip to side seam and omitted the back zip. After first fitting I wasn’t too happy and I had to make a lot of changes – change the shoulder (as my shoulders are quite slanted), take in from the back, add an extra vertical darts. I also changed the skirt part (I did it 5 times in total!). I ended up cutting the skirt part as a rectangle because the original pattern gave me wings and it wasn’t a flattering shilouette.

I lined only the skirt part leaving the top unlined. I didn’t change the sleeve except omitting the zips. For the collar, I used a random pattern that I redrafted as I wanted to make a collar with rounded corners and a collar stand.

All in all I am pleased with the dress. It is comfortable, doesn’t wrinkle and is warm.

Dress

Dress

 

2. Dress for my daughter.

 

For my daughter’s dress I chose I plaid cotton from my stash. I used the pattern from Burda Style Magazine 6/2010. I had to alter it as it was only for size 128 cm. So I combined it with a dress pattern from Burda 2/2013.

Photo: Burda Style Magazine 6/2010

Photo: Burda Style Magazine 6/2010

I lined the body part so that the dress would be more comfortable to wear with tights.

 

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Maibrit's dress

We made the ribbon-rhinestone embellishment together. We thought that the dress is missing something without it :)

And I haven’t got over the exposed zipper trend!

 

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Maibrit's dress