Alexandria Peg trousers from Named Clothing

 

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Some time ago I visited the Named Clothing page  to take a closer look at their famous Jamie Jeans pattern. I don’t know why, but I have this urge to make my own jeans :) But then I found out that Named had published their new spring/summer collection called Ticket from where I found Alexandria Peg Trouser pattern. Peg trousers are my other obsession. It is hard to find a pattern, that fits right. Alexandria pattern seemed the closest what I had in mind – not too baggy at the leg, quite fitted around bottom :)

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So I bought the Alexandria Peg Trousers pattern and with the help of my nine-year old daughter, we assembled the pattern. So far, the only print-at-home PDF patterns I have worked with are the Sewaholic ones. When assembling the pages I am always confused – you have to cut the excessive paper to tape the pages together. But should the frame be cut away, cut in the middle of or should the frame be incorporated? In other words, when the pattern is taped/glued together, should I see the frames of the pages? Because I find it hard to match the patterns – I usually have to cut some pages in half between the actual pattern pieces to get both pieces right.

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The Named patterns are for “average” height woman who is 172 cm. As I am short, I decided to  shorten the pattern body and leg.  I made the mistake of choosing a geometric pattern fabric for muslin. The pattern was too distracting and I somehow didn’t see the fitting issues with the muslin. Shortening the pattern in the body part wasn’t the right decision, so when cutting pieces out from the fabric I lengthened the pattern back :)

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The main fitting issue with these trousers were diagonal lines starting from inseam and going up towards the side seam. I am terrible at fitting pants, but I figured out, that the problem is too long inseam/too short side seam. As I couldn’t lenghten the side seam, I scooped the centre front and back waistline (quite dramatically, 4-5 cm) and also deepened the crotch.  That made the situation better but not perfect. I decided to leave them as they are – not perfect, because there wasn’t anything else I could do.  When I was ready to do the hemming, I decided to make cuffs to make the trousers full length instead of cropped. I got myself white sneakers which I had been craving for and I thought they would look great with my new trousers when they are full length.

I am in love with the front pockets and how the pleat covers the pocket opening. Well, I love everything about this pattern, it is just pity that my body type is not standard they consider.

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The fabric is really nice rayon/polyester crepe, BUT when I started to cut out the pattern pieces, I noticed that my hands where dyed grey. So I removed all the pattern pieces and washed the fabric. But nevertheless my hands where dyed bluish-grey afterwards when I were constructing the trousers. So later I washed the trousers two times and then soaked in salty water to fix the die. I am crossing my fingers that they will not dye my new white trainers!

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My next goal is to find a trouser pattern that I am satisfied with. I am thinking making myself a foolproof pattern so I don’t have to trial and error every time. Fitting pants is not my favourite :)  I sill have the jeans making urge, but I am not sure whether to use some Burda Style pattern or try the Jamie Jeans or maybe Ginger Jeans?

Named Clothing Jamie Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

Burda Style Magazine 3/2014

Dresses

I usually like to wear jeans but for some reason I just love to sew dresses. Maybe because it is quite difficult to find a RTW dres that fits your top and bottom when you don’t have standard measurements.

My daughter is better at wearing dresses and she really needed one as she has grown and I haven’t made her a dress for a while now.

So I got my act togther and made two dresses :)

1. My dress.

 

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Photo: Burda Style Magazine 12/2012

Photo: Burda Style Magazine 12/2012

I had my eye on the dress pattern in Burda Style magazine 12/2012 for long time. I thought that the combination of the gathered skirt part and tweed fabric was quite unusual and not the best idea, but I really liked it anyway :)

I didn’t want a fabric so bulcky, so I opted for lightweight wool blend that I found in fabric store in Tallinn.

I decided to make the dress button up and collared. As the button band goes only to waist, I added a zip to side seam and omitted the back zip. After first fitting I wasn’t too happy and I had to make a lot of changes – change the shoulder (as my shoulders are quite slanted), take in from the back, add an extra vertical darts. I also changed the skirt part (I did it 5 times in total!). I ended up cutting the skirt part as a rectangle because the original pattern gave me wings and it wasn’t a flattering shilouette.

I lined only the skirt part leaving the top unlined. I didn’t change the sleeve except omitting the zips. For the collar, I used a random pattern that I redrafted as I wanted to make a collar with rounded corners and a collar stand.

All in all I am pleased with the dress. It is comfortable, doesn’t wrinkle and is warm.

Dress

Dress

 

2. Dress for my daughter.

 

For my daughter’s dress I chose I plaid cotton from my stash. I used the pattern from Burda Style Magazine 6/2010. I had to alter it as it was only for size 128 cm. So I combined it with a dress pattern from Burda 2/2013.

Photo: Burda Style Magazine 6/2010

Photo: Burda Style Magazine 6/2010

I lined the body part so that the dress would be more comfortable to wear with tights.

 

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Maibrit's dress

We made the ribbon-rhinestone embellishment together. We thought that the dress is missing something without it :)

And I haven’t got over the exposed zipper trend!

 

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Maibrit's dress